Japanese Stab Binding : Tortoise Shell Pattern

Japanese Stab Binding Pattern: Tortoise Shell Binding

Here is the tutorial for the Japanese Stab Binding technique called the Tortoise Shell pattern.

[This pattern is slightly different in that the holes become groups of three, the hole at the center of each group is the pivotal hole (the holes farthest from the spine). For each pivotal hole, you will sew into each of its neighbors, and then move to the next group.]

Other Tutorials Available:
Simple & Basic
Traditional


What you need
20-50 sheets of paper (cut to same size, cut to the size you want the book to be)
Heavy weight paper (2 sheets) for front and back covers
Pencil and ruler
Leather hole punch or thick nail with a mallet or hammer
Thread (linen thread, yarn. ribbon, embroidery thread, whichever material you prefer for the spine), Yarn darning or tapestry needle, scissors

Directions:

1. Choose your cover option and the paper for the text pages, decide the size of your book and the number of pages. cut all text pages to size, or start with paper
cut to a standard size. Then cut two pieces of scrap paper to the same size as the text pages, reserving one for a template and the other to place underneath
the text pages to protect them during handling.

2. Using your ruler and pencil, set up your template as shown in the diagram (measurements vary by paper size, space evenly according to the paper size you are using) For more details on how to set up a basic template see Traditional Stab Binding Tutorial

3. Line up the text pages, and place them on thick cardboard or a wood board, not on a self-sealing cutting mat, which would become permanently damaged. Put the template on top of the text pages. Punch the holes with the leather hole punch or nail and a small hammer.
With the leather hole punch, punch only twenty pages at a time. If you punch more, the pages-and the holes-will slip out of alignment. Use the template to mark the position of the holes for each lot of twenty pages. Check that each hole goes through all the pages

4. Cut the cover paper to the same size as your text pages. Using the template, punch holes in the covers. Assemble the text pages, and put the covers in position.

To bind:

5. 1 Cut a length of thread or ribbon about 6 1/2 times the height of the binding, and thread the needle. Hold the covers and the text pages together, and begin sewing by entering from the back to the front of the second (middle) pivotal hole, and pull the needle and thread through, leaving 2" of thread at the tail of the book. Thread around the spine, and through the same hole again, coming out the back. Enter the next hole up and again wrap around the spine and back through the hole, then into the original hole. Repeat the same process for the next hole down.

6. Now move on to the next group of holes by sewing into the next pivotal hole, then repeat the process for this group.

7. Work your way from the bottom back to the top pivotal hole, making sure to fill in any missing stitches. Repeat process for the top group of holes. Once finished, tie the ends into a knot, trim excess thread and use your needle to tuck the knot into the closest hole.

Traditional Japanese Stab Binding Pattern

Japanese Stab Binding pattern- Traditional

Here is the Traditional Japanese Stab Binding Pattern
I have already posted the basic method here: Japanese Stab-Binding Tutorial

This pattern is very similar, though it also includes a small squared design on the head and tail of your spine.


What you need:
20-50 sheets of paper (cut to same size, cut to the size you want the book to be)
Heavy weight paper (2 sheets) for front and back covers
Pencil and ruler
leather hole punch or thick nail with a mallet or hammer
Thread (linen thread, yarn. ribbon, embroidery thread, whichever material you prefer for the spine), Yarn darning or tapestry needle, scissors

Directions:

1. Choose your cover option and the paper for the text pages, decide the size of your book and the number of pages. cut all text pages to size, or start with paper
cut to a standard size. Then cut two pieces of scrap paper to the same size as the text pages, reserving one for a template and the other to place underneath
the text pages to protect them during handling.

2. Using your ruler and pencil, measure 3/8" from the left side of the template and draw a straight line. Measure 3/8" down from the head and make a dot on the previously drawn line. Mark the same point on the bottom of your template. These will be the lowest and highest sewing holes.
Measure 3/4” from the left side of your template and draw another straight line. Measure 3/4” from the head and mark this point on your new line. Repeat the same for the bottom of your template. Measure the distance between these two marks along the line. Divide that distance into equal parts and mark two other points along the line. These marks on the
template show where to punch holes. Depending on the size of your paper, more holes may be used.

3. Line up the text pages, and place them on thick cardboard or a wood board, not on a self-sealing cutting mat, which would become permanently damaged. Put the template on top of the text pages. Punch the holes with the leather hole punch or nail and a small hammer.
With the leather hole punch, punch only twenty pages at a time. If you punch more, the pages-and the holes-will slip out of alignment. Use the template to mark the position of the holes for each lot of twenty pages. Check that each hole goes through all the pages

4. Cut the cover paper to the same size as your text pages. Using the template, punch holes in the covers. Assemble the text pages, and put the covers in position.

To bind:

5. 1 Cut a length of thread or ribbon about 4 ½ times the height of the binding, and thread the needle. Hold the covers and the text pages together, and begin sewing by entering from the back to the front of the third hole (counting from the top) and pull the needle and thread through, leaving 2" of thread at the tail of the book. Thread around the spine, and through the same hole again, coming out the back. Enter the fourth hole from the back, and again wrap around the spine and back through the hole. Repeat the same process for the fifth hole.

6. Now sew into the bottom hole, wrap around the spine and back through the hole, then wrap around the tail of your book and enter back through the hole. Working back up the spine, sew into the fifth hole, wrap around the tail, and enter back through this same hole.

7. Now sew into the next hole up, and since there is already a stitch around the spine, just stitch up to the next hole. The same is true for this hole as well so continue stitching up to the next hole. This hole has an empty edge, so you will wrap around the spine and back through the hole. Now sew into the top hole, wrap around the spine and back through the hole. Now sew around the head and back through the same hole.

8. Now sew into the next hole down, and wrap around the head, then back into the same hole. This is your last stitch, so now tie the ends into a knot, trim off the excess, and use the needle to tuck the knot into the closest hole.

How To Make A Matchbook Notepad

How to make a matchbook notepad: These super cute little notepads are perfect to slip into your purse or keep on hand to jot down quick little notes. They're small, customizable, and simple to make.

What you will need:
Card-stock or scrapbook paper
15-20 pieces of scrap paper or 15-20 post-it notes
ruler, scissors, stapler
Optional: bone folder, stamps/embellishments

Step 1: Cut your card stock or scrapbook paper to size - I cut my paper to 2 1/8" x 4 1/2" for 2" x 2" post-it notes. (Feel free to adjust the size according to the size of scrap paper/post-it notes you are using.)

Step 2: Starting at one end of your card stock, score a line 1/2" from the bottom. Score another line appx 1/8" ABOVE your previous score line. Lightly fold on your scored lines. (If you are not using a bone folder, simply use your fingernail to score or go right to folding)

Step 3: Place your scrap paper or stack of post-it notes in your fold. Make sure they are in there evenly, and put a staple in the center to hold your paper in place.

Step 4: Score a line right above your post-it note stack, then score another line appx 1/8" above that scored line. Fold on the score marks, and tuck the cover flap into the stapled area like you would a matchbook. Decorate and embellish if desired.

:)

Accordion Fold Album

I made an accordion fold album for my sister while I was studying in Alaska. I had a project assignment to create a handmade book incorporating printmaking techniques. She had been sending me postcards from our favorite places in New England while I was away. I decided to make an album with pockets and envelopes to hole the postcards as well as prints I made inspired by these locations.

Here is the book!

I am currently working on another book similar to this one for my sister to create a scrapbook out of, I'll be sure to post that on here as well once it's finished!!

Want a book similar to this one? Or perhaps another style book? Feel free to check out my Etsy store and send me a request!

The Paper Artist Can Knit

A few weeks ago I felt completely stuck. I wanted to start new projects for my etsy shop and expand on my styles. I figured I needed to take a short break to try a new craft to get the creativity flowing again. I decided I wanted to try to knit myself a scarf.

I am one of those people who cannot justify spending money on something that I feel I can craft myself and personalize to my liking. So of course when I am absolutely dying for a cute cozy scarf, I cannot justify spending $15-$20 on a scarf that I think is kind of cute.

Being unemployed and having to rely heavily on my two etsy shops, I decided to take advantage of the Black Friday sales and head out to JoAnn's Fabrics at 4 a.m.

I have to say - VERY WORTH IT!! I hopped on YouTube, and began my experience learning how to knit. (By the way, I had zero experience with knitting prior to this)

Here is my outcome:

This project gave me excellent ideas for future projects, not just in knitting!
In the next few months (starting after the holidays) I will be working on cloth and knitted book covers. Most of my hardcovers are coated in fine papers, my new approach would be to replace the paper with a knitted pattern for a nice soft texture.
I also make handmade soap and this has inspired me to try felted soap, washcloths, and wrapped soap!

I'd love to hear your opinions :)

On another note, Check out this handmade holiday gift guide! Pass it on:

Get Creative with Framing :)

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I've been working as a Professional Custom Framer for over a year now. Seeing so much variety of pictures and items come through, I've started to experiment with different things you can do with framing.

Here is a shadowbox I made using parts of my own artwork:

I used an intaglio print I had made and cut out pieces of it. I used a sheet of hand-painted paper to line the back and sides and I used plastic spacers and wire to float the tree and form the branches, and pieces of foam board to lift the birds.

I didn't use glass, instead I used plexi, and carved an image into it, and used it as glass for the frame.

There's a ton you can do with a simple frame, try some new things out! :)

Japanese Stab Binding Tutorial

In my last post, I posted pictures of a few Japanese stab-bound books I had made.

Since a few people were curious how to do them, I thought I'd post up a little tutorial for you guys :)

There are many different ways to do a stab-bind. Since they are soft-cover you basically always use a heavy-weight paper, similar to card weight. You can either use the paper as is, and cut to size, or you can double them up, or use a full sheet to wrap entirely around your pages.

There are also many different patterns to use in your binding, I will explain how to do the basic traditional method, If you want to learn more and liked this tutorial, post a comment and let me know if you want me to post the other styles, I'd be more than happy to. :)


What you need:
20-50 sheets of paper (cut to same size, cut to the size you want the book to be)
Heavy weight paper (2 sheets) for front and back covers
Pencil, ruler, and scissors
Leather hole punch or thick nail with a mallet or hammer
Thread (linen thread, yarn. ribbon, embroidery thread, whichever material you prefer for the spine
Yarn darning or tapestry needle

Directions:

1. Choose your cover option and the paper for the text pages, decide the size of your book and the number of pages. cut all text pages to size, or start with paper
cut to a standard size. Then cut two pieces of scrap paper to the same size as the text pages, reserving one for a template and the other to place underneath
the text pages to protect them during handling.

2. Using your ruler and pencil, measure 1/2" (12 mm) from
the left side of the template and draw a straight line. Measure 1/2"
(12 mm) down from the head and 1/2" (12 mm) up from the tail, and
mark these points on the line. These will be the lowest and highest
sewing holes.
Measure the distance between these marks along the line. Divide that distance into equal parts and mark two other points along the line. These four marks on the
template show where to punch holes. Four-hole binding is traditional, though five or
more holes may be used.

3. Line up the text pages, and place them on thick cardboard or a wood board, not on a self-sealing cutting mat, which would become permanently damaged. Put the template on top of the text pages. Punch the holes with the leather hole punch or nail and a small hammer.
With the leather hole punch, punch only twenty pages at a time. If you punch more, the pages-and the holes-will slip out of alignment. Use the template to mark the position of the holes for each lot of twenty pages. Check that each hole goes through all the pages

4. Cut the cover paper to the same size as your text pages. Using the template, punch holes in the covers. Assemble the text pages, and put the covers in position.

To bind:

5. 1 Cut a length of thread or ribbon four times the height of the binding, and thread the needle. Hold the covers and the text pages together, and enter the lowest hole on the front cover, going through to the back. Pull the needle and thread through, leaving 2" (50 mm) of thread at the tail of the book. Thread around the tail, and through the same hole from the front cover. Thread around the spine and through the same hole again, coming out the back. Enter the next hole up from the back, and come out the front of the book.

6. Thread around the spine, and enter the same hole again from the back, coming out the front. Enter the next hole from front to back. Thread around the spine, and enter the same hole again from front to back. Go up to the next, or top, hole, and enter from back to front.

7. Thread around the spine and enter the same hole from the back, coming out the front. Thread around the head, and enter the same hole from the back. Your needle should be on the front, having just come out of the top hole. Go into the second hole down from front to back. On the back, go into the third hole down from back to front.

8. Move to the lowest hole, and remove the needle. Tie a square knot directly over the hole, leaving the tail of the thread. Cut the threads 1/4" (6 mm) away from the knot. Use the needle to tuck the ends into the hole.